Cheese and Microbes

There’s a scene in the British TV series Chef where Lenny Henry, disgusted over the law against unpasteurized cheese, says “that’s exactly what cheese is, gone-off milk with bugs and mold, that’s why it tastes so damn good!” This book makes the microbial basis clear, in that cheese requires bacterial (among other) fermentations to achieve its best quality. Given the amount of microorganism in cheese, it seems almost impossible to get sick from cheese that has spoiled.

Cheese and Microbes begins with the basics; an overview of cheeses from hard to soft, and the kind of rinds you can expect. How much fermentation is required, and the kind of bacteria and heat needed, are all covered. In the chapter The Good, The Bad, and the Ugly (brilliant title, considering that the greatest cheeses look and smell hideous) we learn that the word “fromage” comes from formos, the baskets that the Greeks used to drain whey from curds. Cheese fermentation, according to this chapter, was a natural development of agriculture, stemming from people eating spoiled milk and eventually coming to like the taste.

Further chapters deal with the development of modern cheese, like Swiss cheese, and the origin of their shape. We learn why they are so popular in their countries of origin, and the need that they serve. A recent book, Bringing Up Bebe (aka French Children Don’t Throw Food) describes how French children are taught to enjoy cheeses from an early age. I remember how people reacted to the book, with “holy cow, you know those disgusting French cheeses, the kids in France actually eat them!” But look at the cheese that American kids eat, like Kraft slices; this so-called “American cheese” is actually a version of Cheddar, and is made with oil and water. It’s full of chemicals that your kid’s body won’t thank him for. Maybe those “disgusting” French cheeses aren’t that bad by comparison?

This is a great book for any cheese aficionado, but there is more that can be done with it. I would welcome a version of this book written specifically for children, with more color illustrations. It would be a great way to introduce gastronomically-ignorant elementary school children to “the joy of cheese.” In today’s foodie-crazed USA, I bet the book would fly off the shelves.